[Pansy-Mae]

Thank you Pansy-Mae you are spot-on. That's exactly what is happening. The difference between me and your photos is that I have a lot more fat going on .
You you think I should stick to my usual band size or try to go down one, even if I would have to use the wider hooks?
And, even in your situation, what do you expect your breasts to do in a bra? Be supported and lifted, be covered? And how should it fit? Underboob touching the bottom of the cup, or fabric touching the nipples without pulling up any weight? (Or something else...)
Thank you

I wear a 36B and I always have underwired, just because I like the feel and I think it improves my shape. The 36 band is probably a bit tighter than it 'should' be but I find it comfortable.

As for the lift, support or whatever, much of that depends on the bra style and/or volume of your breasts. I always used to choose 'Wonderbra' type thinking that it would add apparent volume, but then I got a 'balcony' bra and  to my amazement that made me look much bigger and thats pretty much all I wear these days. I find the wonderbra tends to squash them because I have a centre gap and need them pushing inwards. OTOH the balcony bra does lift slightly - I don't have much 'overhang' but the balcony makes better use of what I have and as they lift they also spread slightly and since they can't spread outwards, it all goes inwards and reduces that centre gap. I hope that makes sense?

Ideally, I think the bra cup should cosily hug the breast everywhere, there shouldn't really be any gaps, but IMO a  gap is better than a bulge over the top.

So I suggest you use a tape measure in conjunction with your existing bras to decide what size band you need to be comfortable and then experiment with cup size and style.

If it helps any, I only by cheap ones, try fleabay!